Hong Kong's 'Godfather of Siu Mei' and Tai Hing Founder Dies.

15 hours ago7 min read7 comments

The news arrived not with a grand public announcement, but through the sober, formal channels of the Hong Kong stock exchange, a medium that speaks in numbers and legalities, utterly incapable of capturing the human legacy it was reporting. Chan Wing-on, the founder of the beloved cafe chain Tai Hing and a man anointed by his peers as the 'godfather of siu mei,' had passed away earlier in the day, in his sixties.To merely state his title and corporate contribution, as the official notice did, is to miss the entire story, the one written in the daily rhythms of Hong Kong life. To understand Chan is to walk into the sensory overload of a Tai Hing restaurant at lunch hour—the cacophonous clatter of plates, the urgent chatter of deals being made over milk tea, and above all, the mesmerizing display behind the glass counter.There, hanging in gleaming, mahogany rows, is the heart of Cantonese culinary soul: char siu with its sticky, crimson glaze, crisp-skinned roast pork belly, and succulent roast goose, all achievements that Chan Wing-on helped perfect and popularize. He wasn't just a businessman; he was a custodian of a culture.His journey likely began in a steamy, chaotic kitchen, long before the corporate holdings and the ticker symbol, mastering the ancient, unforgiving alchemy of fire, sugar, and spice that transforms simple meat into siu mei. This craft is as much about patience and intuition as it is about recipe—the constant rotation over open flames, the precise basting, the watchful eye for that perfect caramelization.Chan, through Tai Hing, didn't just sell food; he offered a piece of steadfast, reliable Hong Kong identity, a place where a office worker, a family celebrating a report card, and a group of elderly friends could all find common ground over a shared plate of roast meat and rice. His death marks the closing of a chapter for the city, a moment to reflect on the figures who build our daily landscapes.The 'godfather' title bestowed upon him by fellow restaurateurs is the highest honor, speaking to a legacy of mentorship and setting a standard that elevated an entire industry. It makes one wonder about the man behind the title—what drove him, what sacrifices were made in those early years, what quiet pride he took in seeing his vision become a fixture on countless street corners.As Hong Kong continues its rapid metamorphosis, the enduring presence of institutions like Tai Hing serves as an anchor to its tangible, flavorful history. Chan Wing-on's story is intrinsically woven into the narrative of modern Hong Kong, a testament to how ambition, when paired with an authentic craft, can feed not just stomachs, but the very spirit of a city. His passing is a loss felt not in boardrooms alone, but in the hungry, grateful silence of every customer who ever tore into a perfectly roasted piece of char siu, a simple, profound pleasure that now stands as his most enduring monument.

#Tai Hing

#Chan Wing-on

#siu mei

#Hong Kong

#restaurant chain

#death

#featured

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